LONDON’s Perks Field was once again transformed into Burberry’s canvas, a gabardine-clad tent set against the trees of Kensington Gardens, where the heritage of Britain’s most storied fashion house continues to converse with the present. For Spring/ Summer 2026, Daniel Lee tuned Burberry into the soundscape of British summer – a season not defined by warm weather, but by music, muddy fields and the liberating thrill of letting go.
“Music is about self-expression, originality and belonging,” Lee writes in the show notes, and the collection unfolded like a remix – sharp tailoring spliced with hand-worked check, checks refracted on chainmail and raincoats given a foil finish to shimmer. It was a study of eclectic contrasts: tradition versus rebellion, town against country.
Looking deep into the profound stitchings of Britain’s musical heritage, silhouettes naturally arrived narrow, somewhat mod-ish: slim three-button jackets, tapered trousers and skinny silk ties, you get the vibe. And you can probably guess who was on his moodboard!
Craft was foregrounded. Dresses cut entirely from beads and mirrored tiles caught the lights like a disco ball; leather was laser-cut to mimic lace, suede coats whipstitched to promise movement; and chainmail minis arrived in colour-blocked Burberry Check. Crochet appeared to shape-shift into multidimensional knitwear and hand-worked into party dresses with artisanal heft. Off the back of the brand’s festival capsule earlier this summer, this felt like a luxury evolution from the bucket hat and wellies we have all come to know and love.
This wouldn’t be a Burberry show without an impressive roster of outerwear on display. Trenches returned – Summerside, Rayne, Isleworth – echoing a 1927 archival coat but sliced with macramé or woven through with raffia. Wet-looks were made possible using waxed cotton, and python-print calfskin coats were designed for the wannabe rockstar.
The show itself was scored by Black Sabbath and unearthed by Benji B. A heavy bassline injected an undercurrent of rebellion, reminding the audience that music plays as much of a part in the UK’s culture as fashion.
While Lee has been quietly re-establishing Burberry’s codes for the past few years – the trench, the check and the rooted relationship between urban and rural life – SS26 was the point he added rhythm to his landscape: a celebration of performance, both on and off the stage.
by Imogen Clark