Miuccia Prada already gave us a taste of her AW16 collection back in January during MFW Men’s as she had girls in sailor hats and wool stockings with chequered playing-cards suit pattern intruding into the men’s Fall 2016 show. And the message and mood stayed the same – it only got louder.
The nautical theme, which fluidly transformed into army, continued with navy coats layered over shirts with asymmetric collars, tied with lace-up corsets and worn with high laced boots. The coats remained but changed colour to army green and later on army-like coat, cape and a skirt suit in coloured denim were presented which followed the 1940s aesthetic set from the very beginning with wavy hair and velvety red lipstick.
Tea dresses from floral brocade, velvet with draped shoulders or embroidered organza, paired with long gloves matching the wool stockings, also screamed 1940s Hollywood glamour. As did vintage-looking leather coats and skirts, ever so slightly distressed and colour faded, coats with fur hems or sleeves and a few tartan coats and capes.
The show certainly had no trousers policy as models wore only midi skirts or dresses, pencil or full shapes, but most of the time stockings were worn only with a shirt or/and a short coat with no bottoms. As for the shirts, there was Hawaiian and painting prints, from still life fruit to kissing Cleopatra and Mark Anthony.
The show featured quite a few at first sight odd pairings that turned out to be beautiful, something to which Prada is no stranger. For example, mixing clashing prints, pairing a luxurious 1950s silhouette brocade dress with chunky platform boots, making jackets with matching round skirts from nylon or hanging large charms, such as keys, books or metal roses, on metal chokers or leather belts. Somehow Prada always gets it right and her collections have the right amount of quirk.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Prada