DOING what they do best, Marni delivered another polished collection for their AW18 collection. Although there are aspects of deconstruction integrated into many garments, the collection radiates refinement and sophistication. Creative Director, Francesco Risso concentrated on garment shapes, paying extreme attention to sizing and fit to elevate the collection. Experimenting with proportion and balance, Risso included a range of asymmetrical garments along with a range of fits, as exaggerated, oversized garments follow skintight outfits.
Maturity, in terms of silhouette, is matched by juvenile colours and playful print throughout. Opening with an electric blue, colour transition speedily as new colours are adopted and others replaced. Being a chameleon of changing colours, the collection looks as one through Risso’s boldness of colour. Hues of highlighter pinks set against a clash of greens, oranges and blue, succeeding in amplifying youth. Prints range from geometric to abstract, with a notable amount of animal print, conforming to present trends.
Materials assist the colours with infusing the collection with youth. Light reflective fabrics are used in moderation but are demanding of attention. Patent leathers and sequins appeal to the youngster in all of us; this is juxtaposed by use of luxurious silks and satins that compliment the sophisticated garment silhouettes. Analysis into aesthetic inspirations allows us to appreciate the deconstruction details of loose threads and raw seams. A sportswear inspiration is also notable but overshadowed by the unapologetic ‘80s silhouettes of puffed sleeves and shoulder pads, finalising with a taste of ’80s prom.
by Todd Burns