THERE was an apparent shift towards simplicity at Marni this season. The fashion house known for eclectic prints opened its SS17 show with a series of white and ivory looks and closed with a couple of black ones instead.
Many of the pieces had a utilitarian feel about them. Baggy, monochrome, whether the colour of choice was brown, khaki or fuchsia, and belts came with two big puffy pockets. Some classic garments were reconstructed, as designers like to do, such as the shirt or the trench coat.
Then there was a softer side to the collection. Asymmetrical pleated summer dresses adorned with drawstrings which created different silhouettes. The signature statement jewellery also remained, mainly as mismatched earrings and occasional bracelets with floral motifs.
The famous prints were a little scarce in this collection, however, though not completely absent. They took on a very traditionally springy form – florals, that is. Whether they were blown up blooms on a pale yellow dress and a matching jacket, a miniature version of that same print on a pleated asymmetrical dress or lines waved into petal-like forms. There were also a few of more abstract variations, such as the Pollock-like coats complete with a dash of sequins around the waist or a dress covered in little dots and red and black sequins creating a pattern on top of a pattern.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of Karla Otto