THE SLEEK black catwalk gleamed as models strode down it for the SS20 Emporio Armani MFW show at Teatro Armani in Milan. The all black interior, wrinkled velvet, suggestive satin and glimpses of skin created a sultry yet thoroughly modern aesthetic.
As always, silhouettes were refined, in reference to the unequivocal tailoring Armani (and Italy) is famous for. Women wore blazers and straight trousers, with occasional casual pieces – loose fitting pleats and breezy vests – intermingling here and there.
Demure hues of pink, silver, blue and green were worn in blocks of colour. Clothes possessed an opalescent sheen, appearing at first as one colour, before an extension of a leg or sway of an arm revealed them to have hidden undertones of many more. Skin was shown through sheer organza tops (or no top as one male model demonstrated).
Highlights included a tulle skirt layered over white shorts – floating and feminine but still practical, it ticked all boxes. Armani demonstrated that even as an adult you can live out your mermaid fantasies in his stunning top with sequins in ascending size order, creating a scale effect.
In keeping with the futuristic vision conjured by silvery material, round-rimmed, goggle-like glasses were worn by models and mini bags were carried. Thigh high lace up trainers made casual shoe wear chic and more mature.
The subtle palette, metallic touches, and divine layering of different textures exhibited Armani’s considered approach to design, in turn giving his SS20 collection a unique approach to spring and summer dressing.
by Alicia Pountney