ILLUMINATED by a golden glow emitted from a gilded entrance, columns and key pieces, the Prada SS20 collection for MFW was an antidote to complexity, staged amongst complex surroundings. Set in the Fondazione Prada, AMO devised a vibrant geometric pattern of ceramic tile and interlocking seating that unfolded across the hall, creating a maze of onlookers for the show. Special guests, Winnie Harlow, Alexa Chung, Nicola Kidman and Anna Wintour sat on the front row. Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber walked the runway.
The collection was filled with Prada purity, focusing on style rather than fashion, encompassing timeless designs from epochs past. The pieces were integrated, in a state of constant flux – one moment showcasing a sophisticated 1920s style hat, the next, grungy ‘90s platform shoes, and then garbed in a daring, psychedelic orange, inspired by the ‘70s.
Geometric patterned skirts echoed the tiled floor, and graphic make up – bold eyeliner and red lips – amplified the strong lines AMO had created. Colour-blocked metallics drew the eye from gold columns to a gold skirt suit, which was later followed by a glittering green pleated dress.
Continuing with the dazzling motif of all things that sparkle, sequined laurel leaves unfurled themselves across skirts and dresses, perhaps in reference to days gone by, and the prominence the laurel leaf had in the roman world. Was this Prada proudly declaring their triumph over the fashion world?
Ensembles were topped with 1920s hats and footed by tortoiseshell riding boots, giving a vintage feel.
The SS20 Prada collection emphasised an overarching precedence of style over fashion – one that is timeless.
by Alicia Pountney