With a trip down memory lane and an examination of the 1960s, Alessandro Dell’Acqua conjures bourgeois and retro chic for N°21‘s SS25 show.
Neapolitan-born, Milan-based Alessandro Dell’Acqua is really one for embellishments, even of a retro variety—you’ll occasionally see zippers or hooks on his offerings. Not even a muted sequin would slip past his watchful eye: the designer, who worked under various commercial lines and dabbled into menswear and womenswear before branching into his label, has a near fetish for an odd detail.
He’s similarly fond of colour. Yellow, green, purple; long, cinched, and often layered: that’s the Dell’Acqua philosophy. “I love the rebel aura depicted by photographer Karlheinz Weinberger because it changed the look of femininity leaning into subcultures—not so bourgeois, but mixing masculinity in a very new mood for that era,” said Dell’Acqua, referencing the 1960s as a period of renewal.
“For me risking is important, hence the hero looks I dared with the most were the functional anorak paired with an embroidered dress, the tailleur in gold, the knitwear or the yellow accessories.”
For spring-summer 2025, the designer envisioned a versatile wardrobe made of classic pieces with the odd edge. “Contrast is fundamental for the process, as it could lead to technical mistakes which can birth, in turn, very interesting details.” It’s a skilful take on timeless classics, one that champions his Italian training. His wide, finely-sculpted knits sit high and are worn with an elongated style.
Further standouts comprise of boxy jackets in quilted micro floral print poplin, ruched blouses worn over white linen shirts, thick sweaters teamed with pencil skirts and cloth-covered buttons paired with chiffon. Long dresses in breezy fabrics with asymmetrical details round out the collection. On hangers, Dell’Acqua’s clothing often gives us a redundant reading. Upon close inspection, however, his use of volume is so delightfully respite.
There were pieces that the girls of the circuit will no doubt be keen to add to their racks. And if it occasionally feels a little overdone, there’s consolation in a pared-back set of flats that are impeccable for day-to-night pursuits.
by Chidozie Obasi