MILAN, Italy — Let there be light(ness). And in true breezy fashion, Boss gave a harmonious result in the research produced for its Spring/ Summer 2026 collection, from the suiting done with almost-military precision in scales of blue, to a final tailored outfit that felt quite sensually severe.
If cut is one measure of a designer’s skill, then the airy, elegant proposals of Marco Falcioni’s design codes are sure to become one of the most promising new ones in Italian fashion. His perfectly tailored trousers—earthy and roomy—could become cult buys.
And his thought-out, soup-to-nuts – or rather, to-the-point volumes approach to a woman’s and men’s wardrobe put him on quite a luxurious wavelength. But Falcioni’s personal mission to soften the irregular added not so much novelty as a slash, like the subtly potent streak of layering that intersected a preppy undertone, or the cuts that opened the front and sides of skirts’ slits.
Something lovely is going on there. Elsewhere, jackets are soft-textured and come in both single and double-breasted styles, featuring well-cut shoulders, but this season they also come with a noticeably lighter feel throughout the lineup. The matching trousers are made in a roomy, straight-leg double-pleated style, which customers would be likely to lust after (sure that they’ll feel the same way I do, as his voice could become that of contemporary design too).
A further overarching theme was that of juxtapositions and contrasts: the overall vibe defies the traditional stiffness of corporate suiting, embracing a sense of contradiction associated with the show’s theme.
This is evident in one of the runway’s hero looks: on a lighter note—again, suiting won this season’s race, but made from an exquisite blend of Italian silk-linen and wool, created with viscose cotton, a fabric more commonly used for women’s blouses. It was such sinuously fuss-free flourishes that made Falcioni’s show a breezy pleasure.
by Chidozie Obasi