MILAN, ITALY — There has been a lot of wacky looks on the runway this Spring/ Summer 2027 season—clothes with a discernible don’t-mess-with-me attitude. Brunello Cucinelli wasn’t immune to the trend, but his new collection put a more poised spin on intimidation. There was a subtly provocative, confident vibe at play, one not far from the retro vibe Cucinelli has conjured in the past, but with a decidedly fiercer mien.
The notable development was the body-consciousness of the designer’s clothes: he introduced new iterations of bomber jackets and trench coats, while outerwear in organza, striped poplin and denim takes on a summery feel, offering a fresh and unexpected approach to daywear.
Utility aesthetics are softened and reinterpreted through a feminine lens, with delicate tailoring, fluid lines and the ethereal quality of the materials. New silhouettes and techniques elevate denim, bringing couture value to an everyday fabric. Elsewhere, timeless summer palettes of white, rope and ivory were paired with the season’s neutrals: American khaki and cardamom, clay and leather, Corten and pecan. Primary red and luminous, uplifting shades of blue lend intensity.
Details were telling across the knitwear front—diagonal weaves inspired by Viennese canework, either embroidered or crocheted by hand, extend beyond knitwear to skirts, T-shirts and accessories. Cucinelli also came up with a few intriguing styling pieces, including crochet effects and handcrafted elements that added a touch of vanity to knitwear’s rich heritage. All in all, the vision this season was poised. But—pun intended—it cast a spell.
by Chidozie Obasi