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MFW SS27: Dolce & Gabbana


MILAN, ITALY — It’s never been just about the clothes at Dolce & Gabbana. Since its beginnings decades ago, the cult Italian luxury house has offered its urban hipster clientele an appealing lifestyle brew that is equal parts fashion, music (this season, Jennifer Lopez—wearing a black beanie with a matching tuxedo in velvet—partnered with them and brought star power to the front row), interior design, and film.

For designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, overarching touchpoints across their lineups are just as important as the merchandise itself. Emblematic of the globalised, multi-hyphenate generations, it’s no wonder that the house is particularly good at capturing the style zeitgeist of its all-time wearer, beyond all manner of traditional dressing.

Titled “Stravaganza Siciliana” (Sicilian extravaganza), the Spring/ Summer 2027 outing found the design duo taking cues from Southern Italy’s old-school glam, with a sharp eye on the present. Picture, for example, slip dresses worn over masculine jackets, antique lace paired with contemporary iterations of tweed, grandmother dresses that gain a modern spin through layered separates, and precious beading that marries a romantic yet rebellious undertone.

As per the usual, they brought a style that’s never too studied or deliberate; the collection stays current with its sexy lace dresses and bold jewelled pieces; there’s nothing too groundbreaking in this season’s eveningwear offerings, which is a streetwise remix of prêt-à-porter, workwear and the classic gamine. But that’s fine, inasmuch as these clothes are intended for girls who want to look and have more in their head than just fashion.

This season’s fitted skirts and embellished jeans are going to get lots of traction; ditto the sparkly blazers with cinched waistlines and power-prints (both floral and the customary animalier). There’s also a fine sense of colour here—washed neutrals trading in and out with pop hits of light blue, white, beams of gold and red. No-brainer shirts, trousers with modern, sporty silhouettes and a dressed-up mien were all part of the seasonal style  equation, making SS27 on-target business as usual for the Italian house.

by Chidozie Obasi

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