WE ARE all familiar with the saying, ‘out with the old and in with the new’ but for creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi its meaning was one she wanted to question.
So, for Fendi’s autumn-winter 2022 menswear collection the focus shifted onto shaping the new Roaring Twenties by taking the elegance of the past and the modernity of the future into the wardrobe of today’s gentleman.
Infusing classic dandyism with the playful nature of masculinity, the Italian designer has taken this opportunity to look beyond the conventional guidelines of tradition.
Feeling the ripples coming from the waves of discussion surrounding what it means to be a modern man, Silvia was ready to disrupt the boundaries by twisting sartorial tropes this season.
Through an understated palette enriched with hues of tonal shades of black, cream, mocha and taupe, bold graphic patterns and handfuls of decadent fabrics, a new dialogue of male sophistication has started.
Satin tuxedo trims, striped silk jacquards and precious cable knit ensembles echo the beat of soft femininity as diamond digital prints, shearling floral brooches and pearl chokers are all bonus extras.
Not straying too far from the savoir-faire of tailoring, softer proportions reflect the new aesthetic with blazers arriving with flat capes and sharp lapels, jackets cut with scooped necks and the chest clavicle is exposed through keyhole peek-a-boo moments on knits, but most notably, wide-legged trousers glide past with half-skirt in tow hinting at the return of skirts for men.
The tsunami of neo-dandy looks finished with a nod to Fendi’s European roots as two enviable evening-wear silhouettes quenched the thirst for more.
One cropped double breasted jacket was paired with overly high-waisted trousers while the other was equipped with a tailcoat and a bow tie showcasing the craftsmanship of the House’s ateliers.
Synonymous for their accessories, the AW22 collection did not disappoint. The Peekaboo was stripped down to its most architectural form debuting as a large structured shopper in either smooth or grained leather with FF logo panelling with suede intersections while the Baguette downsized into miniature chain bags.
Silvia Venturini Fendi spoke volumes with this collection. Not only responding to the evolving nature of menswear, she also managed to take the Fendi codes and help shape this new perspective.
With subversion historically not the prettiest of trends, Fendi has managed to design for the elegant rebel of today.
by Imogen Clark