Matteo Tamburini showed timelessness with a youthful eye, elevating classics with a youthful twist.
TOD’S talent lies in its way of gently tweaking a single idea – turning out small, cutely formed high-conceived collections, blissfully tailored to confrontational volumes.
This time, the well-chosen subject of its pieces was the subtlety of timelessness as AW25 gathered its throngs in all manner of prettily tailored offerings that combined soft shapes, poised rigour and breezy separates.
Another attraction is Tamburini’s sensitivity to silhouette and romance. If you want movement and drama, the brand’s more avant-garde pieces—like silks, lightweight leathers and fine suedes—have a delicacy akin to something out of a no-fuss setting.
Worthy of note is the Pashmy project, which epitomises a high expression of excellence in the research and selection of the finest leathers. Pashmy is distinguished by the use of extraordinary delicacy and refinement of pashmina, from which the name itself is derived, and comes in two variations: a fine suede and a version in ultra-light Nappa leather, both different expressions of the same concept of refined luxury.
These materials embrace the label’s iconic products, from outerwear to footwear, as well as bags. Tamburini reinvisions menswear classics like the bomber and the shirt jacket by adding, yet again, a soft spin for an experience of peerlessness. Standout hues comprise earthy tones, from sand, and burnt shades to tobacco.
The brand’s Gommino is the main element in the footwear collection, which compressed all its prettiness into a single staple: one presented in fine suede, soft nappa, and hand-brushed leather by the brand’s artisans.
Alongside the iconic model and the Bubble version is the iconic City Gommino, which returns in a new shape with a modern twist. At the same time, the historic W.G. (Winter Gommino), the season’s central project, echoes the original model in its shape and brilliant proportions. No doubt they’ll fly off the racks in no time.
by Chidozie Obasi