In their tenth anniversary year Marni designer and co-founder Consuelo Castiglioni sharpened the quirky aesthetic and re-articulated the Marni vision – a continuation of the profound change in last years Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Castiglioni´s then-statement “More clean, more fresh, more light” still rings true for today’s Milan show, although the shades were darker, more muted – forest and sea greens, mid-greys and blues paired with the crisp white and accents of bright red made for a sober Spring/Summer palette.
Autumn/Winter’s barren forest had grown minute blossoms – mint green and scattered across a black, deep v-neck sundresses or three-dimensional and multicoloured amassed on variety jackets, bandeau crop tops and pencil skirts, this a testament to Castiglioni’s ability to constrain maximalist elements within a sharp, minimalist framework. Fabrics had a tactile quality – whether a dove grey linen coat, a muted emerald embellished bomber jacket and skirt or a black patent perforated jacket over pink tulle fluff, the interplay between surfaces added essential interest and depth.
Dominated by super-wide leg trousers, over-the-knee pencil skirts and tailored, yet slightly oversized tops and jackets cinched at the waist, silhouettes were feminine in an old-world yet thoroughly modern way – emphasised by relaxed ruffles and peplum-elements.
One of the most interesting, fashion forward designers today, we would not mind staying in Marni’s Spring wilderness – complete with embellished sun-visors – for just that little bit longer. As the remixed soundtrack would suggest Consuelo Castiglioni once again did it her way.
by Elisabeth Krohn
Images: Style.com