MOLLY Goddard delivered her SS21 collection via a stripped-back film: models walked a raised white catwalk in an empty studio to a soundtrack padded with voices and general background noise. The film had a behind-the-scenes feel: the dressing room and inner workings were exposed to the viewer, and the wide shots were intercepted by occasional shaky, grainy close ups.
Goddard presented a characteristically frothy and saccharine collection, cut with the casual, punky attitude of her bottom-heavy silhouettes and stompy shoes. The pieces were headlined by a rich pink, and acidic green, matched with red and blue: an off-kilter spectrum of clean, bright colours.
The impression was a collection of colour-blocking, accentuated by the blocky, monotone closed toe platform mules and socks in the same vibrant shades, that finished each of the looks. Goddard did offer a few patterns – a gingham that was then condensed to a graphic checkerboard and a swirly floral design printed on denim or sheer tulle, but, as with much of Goddard’s work, the detail lives in the intricate textures of shirred and pleated fabrics: the fine textile manipulation for which she is known best.
Knotted, ruffled textures were worn layered over tops, in slouchy bags, beret-like headwear, and across the bustling skirts of dresses. Some of the these dresses had structured bodices; contemporary reimagining of corsets that speak to the union of maximalist costumery and cool attitude that characterise Goddard’s work.
by Connie de Pelet