With a deep-seated sense of drama this season, the like of which would even unnerve Maria Callas, Donna Karan marked her 30th anniversary collection with a collection of striking patent pieces that highlighted Karan’s timeless ability to create clothes that empower women.
Opening the show with a thought-provoking installation piece by Steven Sebring, depicting cavorting bodies swathed in the monochrome collection, gutsy orchestral string arrangements followed, as sheaths of chiffon, bold low-cut dresses with high slits and finely sculpted tailored jackets, leather belted for maximum effect, populated the catwalk.
The dark, seductive body-contouring shapes, which polarized either lengthy décolletages or restrained high-necklines, ran the gamut of classic sheer slinky styles, in an acknowledged tribute to the city that made Karan, New York. A variety of biker-esque hats by Stephen Jones made for fabulous perky features, composed of vicuña, with flicks of yak fur, “like Charlotte Rampling in The Night Porter” commented hairstylist Eugene Souleiman.
The addition of rich blood-red hues concluded an on-point colour palette, interspersed by the unique dash of a decadent violet silk gown, paraded outstandingly by Karen Elson. And with these words, “I wanted to show the strength of the woman. I wanted to show that after 30 years I think we stand for something that is absolutely, iconically Donna Karan” it’s quite clear that Karan’s footprint on modern fashion is indeed a pivotal one.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com