WHEN we entered the 20s, many of us hoped that the future would emulate the same extravagance that we read about in books like The Great Gatsby. However, that idea quickly vanished. But for Creative Director Wes Gordon, the light at the end of the tunnel is one that profusely glitters.
Taking inspiration from the innate strength and self-assurance embodied by the Carolina Herrera woman, the autumn-winter 2022 collection is injected with bold, decadent confidence.
Though silhouettes take a linear turn this season, looks are given an element of exuberance as enormous sleeves are added at the seams, bursts of colour crawl out from the hems and undulating trains glide out from cinched waists. Precision is very much key to the looks as tailoring finds itself at centre stage with bustier shapes revealing some subtle sex appeal to the fiery collection.
Infused with electric saturation, evolving from Crushed Berries to Fire Opal and Anemone Blue, the colours juxtapose the white of the runway, proving that this collection is not one for the faint-hearted. Or, as the show notes state “Bravery never goes out of fashion”.
Though exaggerated silhouettes dominate AW22, exploded florals anchor femininity into the seams of the collection. Patchworked onto strapless dresses, embroidered onto two-piece knitted skirt suits and seen endlessly in repeated pattern retro jumpsuits, this motif of blooming irises is set to brighten the gloomy winter days later this year.
Continuing on from SS22, copious layers of tulle and crisp taffeta made a warmly welcomed return as the Carolina Herrera is set to party the cold away.
With an undertone of celebration always heard at Herrera, as the designer took his final bow he brought with him Miro Hermes and Francois Bouchet, the head Patternmakers at the New-York based fashion House, who after a 22-year- and a 19-year career are taking their final bow and retiring. A beautiful and touching way to finish a show soaked in referencing a history of heart-pounding empowerment.
by Imogen Clark