RAF’S first collection with Calvin Klein (which debuted earlier in the year) represents the American dream, in a ying-yang reverse the SS18 collection takes inspiration from the grungier reality. It feels good to be bad and Simons succeeds through daring to experiment with the DNA of the brand. Reinventing the denim jacket, remixing classic silhouettes with new materials and deconstructing heels, dresses and t-shirts is how the creative chief continues to refresh the brand.
The chromatic runway shifted from one extreme to another as it showcased silky western-inspired shirts, moody checkered suits and high-shine raincoats. The colour blocking now staple to the 205W39NYC collection stood out, especially when unsymmetrical, and a focus on waxy leather in gloomy colours became key to the catwalk this time round.
Perhaps most notable was the over-exaggeration of American culture with eye-catching pom-pom dresses, oversized accessories such as blankets and key rings layered with heavy fonts and baby pink cowboy boots. Disturbing such looks with nightmare notions just as a Sterling Ruby art piece keeps the nostalgic ideas fresh.
Blending patriotic concepts with uncanny prints and patterns, Simon’s blending of cultures is quintessential to his name as a designer and the collection feels like a natural progression forward as creative director. Borrowing heavily from horror archetypes creates the idea of the American nightmare many would say the country is currently facing. Luckily such reactions to society creates new ideas within fashion.
by Joseph Furness