ILLUMINATED by a spectrum of electric colours, Sies Marjan’s AW18 collection focused on enhancing minimalist pattern cutting with fabric manipulation and dyeing techniques. Opening the show was an intricately pleated dress, gathered to create an apparent rose-shape illusion at the waist and paired with straight-leg trousers. Colour evolves from tones of green to a rusted orange followed shortly by the initial ombré dyed look. Creative director Sander Lak uses textured fabric to his advantage, at the eclectic mix of sheened silks, soft furs and rib knit enhances the collection further.
Advances in the dyeing techniques continue, as repeat ombrés bring a contemporary edge. A show stopping holographic mac suggests accessibility between ages, appealing to a youthful audience. Printed fabrics have a delayed introduction along with menswear, but continue the colour story with abstract smudges of pinks and blues. A series of floor-length dresses steal the show, constructed with asymmetric layers of chiffon and bias-cut silk in two-tone colours create a sense of depth and femininity, given a casual twist with kitten-heeled loafers and paired-back styling.
Cohesion between the backdrop and collection is lost as the finale draws closer. Brown and navy replaces the initial colours but with no compromise on design due to Lak’s use of patent leathers and oil-like holographics. However the outfits closing the collection returns to the bold colours of before, with the final look being a minimalist midi dress featuring the ombré dye and fabric manipulation, now resembelling twisted fabric during a tie-dye process.
by Todd Burns