Paris Fashion Week: Valentino

The past seasons we have grown blissfully accustomed to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli reinterpretation of the Valentino brand – a romantic historicism in a thoroughly new way. This Spring/Summer 2014 show was no exception, rather it seemed they have found their voice and come to articulate it better than ever. A dark collection dominated by black, burgundy, emerald and taupe, it was brightened up by intricate, geometric embroidery in turquoise, coral and gold and had an exotic, folkloric feel to many of the pieces while retaining what has become signature Valentino silhouettes – dresses both long and short with a demure high neckline, a defined natural waist, sleeveless or with long slimline sleeves. Fringed leather appeared on bags and capes and suede tunic mini-dresses in black, navy and burgundy – a sure favourite – while baby-blue pussy-bow blouses were at once feminine and sharp. Chanel-like jackets took a turn to the folkloric and denim trousers got a semi-successful wide-leg, skirted makeover.

Comprising of 72 looks in total there was enough to choose from at Valentino in Paris today – we are continually in awe of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli´s ability to balance very desirable and surprisingly minimal pieces while at the same time evoking conveying a rich and magnificent aesthetic somewhat reminiscent of historical portraiture.








by Elisabeth Krohn