If the runway show were to start with the finale, and we saw a collection in its entirety to start, we might describe Haider Ackermann’s Fall 2014 Ready to Wear collection as “monastic”. True, there are plenty of elongated, draping, gown-like trousers and coats. The pieces, per Ackermann signature, though, reveal much more in their construction, tailoring, and even in their textiles. Peer closely, and Ackermann’s attention to detail separates his collection from the other takes on the habit Paris has shown so far this season.
The softest grey wool may hang languidly past models’ wrists, but their visages stand chiseled and strong, nearly comedic with sharply pronounced brows. Upturned jacket collars punctuate fluid coats. Rock star reptile booties with a stiletto designed for its original purpose finish ladylike pant suits (if “pant suit” can describe the gentle drape of an over-long leg and an ingeniously pleated jacket vent).
The collection, in its understatement, shows the strength of Ackermann’s innate design talent and impeccable training. These pieces will undoubtedly grace the next round of street style photographs (because if they aren’t indescribable oddities, aren’t street style shots most coveted when they show unflappable, I-didn’t-take-a-care beauty?). That combination of Fashion and marketable clothing remind us that Ackermann would do right by any big house of which he might take the reins.
by Alison Santighian
Images courtesy Style.com