DAVID Koma is now designing entirely for a Mugler woman that is very much à la mode. At Paris Fashion Week this season the brand’s creative director was finally able to delve into the house’s essence and resurrect the most vivid throwback to the former glory days of Thierry without the majority of the collection feeling even a smidgen dated. Shoulder pads were at the crux of this hard-edge glam statement and made for a battalion of cut-throat silhouettes.
Hourglass bodies were carved from the shoulders on down. The star motif that made stars out of iconic Thierry Mugler scents such as 1992’s Angel was repurposed as deconstructed, jagged constellation motifs to liven up the hem of mini-dresses. Hem tricks and illusions being something that Koma is a dab hand at.
To rival the starry stylings that monopolised midway through the collection, Koma then introduced sheet upon sheet of shimmering silver and grey lamé in the cool tones that were adhered to throughout. Often pleated, it flowed sensually with the contours of the body and showed in a sweep of stretch cloth that, even when tasked with putting out one of his most powerful power-dressing looks, Koma is still able to cultivate the cool sex appeal personified by the Mugler woman.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Mugler