LONG-KNOWN as a technically pioneering tailor, Yohji Yamamoto opted to bring operatic drama and, dare we say, romance, to AW17. Averting himself from the austerity chic that is usually at the core of his collections, this season was another story altogether. Story it was as well – with such an abundance of fabrics.
Pleating bouquets of oblivion black material Yamamoto created floating coats, tunics and balloon-skirted dresses that will steal the scene in any situation.
Also employing heavy layering to practically laddering proportions, garments were defiant in their imposing protest against working with the body in any way. This came to an abrupt halt about seven looks from the finale when the noise of the lyrical couture-esque construction died down in the form of a handful of sleek black jackets haphazardly constructed. It showed Yamamoto reflecting on a burst of creativity which the designer materialised magnificently on the runway.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Yohji Yamamoto