RENOWNED for extravagant use of clashing print, Dries van Noten stayed true to form with his AW18 collection. From the get go, illustrative print is a main feature as a series of monochromatic and mustard looks open the show. Technical parkas and classic trousers appear to have been used as a pad for someone’s doodling – perfected, highly skilled doodling that is. Colours, along with print, constantly evolve as the show continues, with purples shifting to duck egg blue followed by green.
Trims and embellishment elevate the collections luxury qualities as well as reference to influential historic trends. Coloured feathers are a continuous feature, following hemlines and decretive seams for a dramatic impact. The use of feathers nods to a ‘20s inspiration; this is further explored through garment silhouettes such as plunging V-necks, calf-length skirts and boxy dress cuts. A common sight in van Noten collections, abstract-graphic panelling and colour blocking breaks up the print and allows for materials and further print to be incorporated into one look.
Slick hair and neutral faces, apart from the vibrant eye shadow, leaves a blank canvas for the clothing with models sporting a lone earring matching the feathers that adorns much of the collection. Subtle fabric manipulation is utilised for structure or to change the nature of the material. Ruffling adds volume to sleeves – touching on an ‘80s influence – and gathering gives shape to oversized garments. The final look summarises the elegance of the collection, with statement fringing and printed boots adding a contemporary, feminine touch.
by Todd Burns