RICK OWENS showcased another thought-provoking collection during PFW. Seemingly a continuation from Sisyphus – his latest menswear range – his AW18 collection incorporated similarities through styling choices, materials and detailing. Known for his extremity in conceptual fashion, the collection consists of various padded looks and little accessibility – but what’s lacking in accessibility is made up for with abstracted silhouettes and complex pattern cutting.
The styling of porcelain white faces and UFO-like headbands reflects the unusual shapes in the collection. The runway kicked off with a deflated looking dress, but as look after look stormed the runway, it appeared as the garments were inflating as they drastically became more padded. Dramatic curves and voluptuous side bags distort the human figure beyond recognition with exposed legs and shoulders for a reminder of what’s beneath. A range of less avant-garde garments, such as overcoats with decorative studs – a feature in the menswear collection – allows some saleability within the collection.
A deconstructed aspect is notable, as technical jackets are complete – or incomplete – with visible seams and raw hems. Subdued tones of grey and brown contribute to the majority of the colour scheme resulting in a harsh aesthetic, lightened with the occasional mustard accent. However, towards the collection’s finale, a shocking introduction of a yellow and brown check, alongside a cyan-blue silk-satin, touches on Owens’ delicate side – one that we might see more of in future.
by Todd Burns