IN RESPONSE to the recent public outing of grievous sexual assault of women in the workplace, Anthony Vaccarello’s AW18 collection for Saint Laurent sent out a clear message: We shall not be prey. This was visible in the feline iconography that featured throughout such as winged eyeliner, cat printed garments and earrings in the shape of fish skeletons. The earrings especially, communicated the defiant message.
Like his SS18 show, this collection was shown within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. The women carried black monogram shoulder bags. 1980’s wide boxy shoulders seen throughout presented the women as strong and empowered. Power dressing is nothing new for Saint Laurent. Juxtaposing the wide shoulders were short shorts in leather. The men wore skinny fit tailoring, knit jumpers and black nail polish.
Bandannas with metal eyelets matched the punk aesthetic of the leather pieces. The wide-brimmed hats brought to mind Beyoncé’s Formation music video, highlighting the collection’s feminist message. Both of these accessories were very wearable in comparison to the exaggerated Russian-inspired hat.
Tassels and fringing added visual interest to pieces that could have been mundane without them. They also appeared on scarves, earrings, shoes, necklaces. Vaccarello’s eveningwear dresses showcased a series of abstract necklines shape like distorted flower petals.
To end a collection that was mainly black, all of the female models came out in slim dresses with vibrant sequined floral designs in electric reds, pinks, purples, blues and yellows. They varied in necklines, but all bared a lot of leg. With so much leg on display throughout the entire show, more attention was drawn to the chunky black platform ankle boots and the more delicate heel fur detailing.
by Tom Halford