FIERCE, yet clean, Balenciaga brought us the “the real Parisian of today” to the scene. With a runway lacking distractions, the collection stood its own ground: silhouettes were modelled down the runway, celebrating the sartorial excellence of the French fashion house. Lit by an ominous red glow followed by bright white flashes of light, the show began… a plethora of classic tailoring in the form of rounded shoulders, buttonless wrapped cocoon coats and minimalists’ dream suits emerged – designed for both men and women.
Decidedly straying away from pre-collections, Gvasalia opted for a 109-look co-ed spectacle; the brand’s entire six month roster was put on display this Paris Fashion Week: every gender, accessory and shoe was given a moment to shine. Hinting at a new era at Balenciaga, the background displays were dismantled, instead to be replaced by a black backdrop to highlight the clothing. The smell of asphalt was utilised to emulate the streets of Paris, a metaphorical representation of everything this collection aims to be.
Their theme was transcendent and consistent: models carried water bottles in mini Balenciaga cross-body bags, emphasising their hydration motif and the fact that disposable plastic bottles should be a thing of the past. The male models carried paper-esque shopping bags: representing both high-end stores and local supermarkets, some even marked with the classic double-B logo – a reference to what you see all over Paris. A brand for the day-to-days: everything from meeting friends for an upscale dinner to the simple trip to the grocery store.
Playfully riffing off of Gvasalia’s reputation for hoody-designing, Cristobal Balenciaga’s cloistered configurations were reimagined through high collars and hoods as guises against the winter months and unwanted conversations. The previous dad-trainers were omitted, rather favouring the more refined and nocturnally-approved square-toed leather boots.
A collection of vinyl macs, duvet coats – quilted, of course – razor-sharp stilettos, chunky army boots and their iconic suits, this runway collection was quintessentially Balenciaga. In comparison to the whimsy of their last collections, Balenciaga brought us a muted, understated and even possibly sombre collection. Refined and reticent, Balenciaga proved why they are a power fashion house.
by Robyn Ngan