PFW AW19: Jacquemus

THOSE who thought Gucci sent out the most creative invitation, arriving with a complimentary cast head, didn’t count on the quirky French label Jacquemus. After introducing his Le Saq Chiquito last season, the invites for his AW19 show La Collectionneuse came with a microscopic version of the Chiquito.

For his show, the French designer transformed the Parisian show space into a tranquil and romantic village in the South of France. Pastel and terracotta-coloured facades were home to florists for the evening, and for those who forgot where they were, there was a kitsch plaque that read Place de Jacquemus.

Theatrics and tiny bags aside – clenched between the thumb an index fingers of models – it’s time to focus the clothes. Jacquemus had a more sophisticated yet – as seems to be the trend – colourful approach this season. Contrasting his almost ridiculously tiny bags was the oversized fit of tailored suiting executing in a variety of more muted-down colours. Looks were monochromatic, sticking to one tonal palette for most looks. Whether it was fitting coats, paired with knit trousers, or white oversized blouse-dresses, cinched in at the waist with what looked like a bright red leather jacket – the coolest way we’ve ever seen it tied up – the French label offered some impeccable day-time looks.

The Jacquemus woman is one who loves to experiment, be it with colour or silhouette, epitomised by a cropped wrap jacket in a grey-blue. Proving the brand understands what the modern-woman want, garments were slouchy yet stylish. A model dressed in a sky-blue unbuttoned shirt with a matching pair of loose wide-legged trousers, held a pair of heels like a handbag, only Jacquemus could make us envious of a walk-of-shame look.

A particular love of attaching objects to garments was seen throughout his AW19 collections. Manifested with puffa-bags, serving as a peplum silhouette to trousers and taking floral quite literally by scattering faux flowers across crisp white suits.

From making the most impractical bag a must-have and bringing the Provence to Paris, is there anything Jacquemus can’t do?

by Lupe Baeyens

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