THIS season Vetements presented 165 looks against backgrounds of hellfire, rainbows and a heavenly staircase. Opening with an upside-down anarchy symbol on a bare chest, accessorised with a balaclava, combat boots and trousers gaping at the knees, Guram Gvasalia announced the dystopian expose of contemporary climate that we have come to expect from the brand.
The sheer size of the line could only contribute to an increasing awareness surrounding the consumerist and unsustainable nature of fashion week. The clothes spanned silhouettes, colour palettes and prints, beckoning through fire, rain and sky, and overwhelming their viewer. At once, one is absorbed by the visual feast, and wary of the mass consumption it necessitates. Gvasalia continues to toe the line between fashion house and cultural critic.
The fire-backed looks were punky and dark. Green fire-laced shirts and boots, leather, lace and velvet were abundant, and each look echoed something of a hardcore 1990s grunge.
Colour crept in amongst the beige and tan of the rainbow looks. Loungewear, mesh and deconstructed tailoring was matched with classic Vetements interactions of workwear, shot through with acid green.
Against a backdrop of heaven’s clouded staircase, witchy lace, Y2K neon sets and office-appropriate suits joined a Matrix-like ensemble of black-clad figures.
The collection is a disparate exploration of contemporary styles that rallies to emulate something of the disruption and uncertainty that characterises today’s climate.
by Connie de Pelet