PFW AW23 Couture: Fendi

THE AUTUMN-winter 2023 couture season was marked with a single word – simplicity. Interpreting this in different manners, Kim Jones’ take was a seriously stripped down version of high-fashion for Fendi. Focusing only on clothes and jewellery, he worked closely with Delfina Delettrez Fendi to play with the notion that these two forms would be inherently intertwined within every look.

Shape, drape and fluidity were combined, instructed and informed by jewels, whether finding themselves framing a specific piece on the body or seeking to emulate the tones and architecture of a precious stone. “If there is no jewellery, the idea is still present through the colour palette and embellishment in the collection; the clothes themselves take on the idea of jewellery,” explained Jones.

Noting in the show notes, the artistic director of jewellery adds: “In the end, they have a direct and intimate relationship to the body; they are a profound and personal extension of the woman”.

Emphasising shape through drape and volumes, sculptural silhouettes are achieved through complex pattern cutting that utilises a single seam. Described as ‘bravura’, this achievement unlocks a second-skin feel to the silk, with additions of neoprene furs, Fendi chevron feather shearlings and intricate knits creating a heightened, luxury feel to AW23 couture.

Diving further into the realm of this high fashion sector, the approach to jewellery design takes on the same precision as the collection debuts one-off pieces. Keeping within the colour palette, white and yellow diamonds are mixed with green, orange and pink Padparadscha sapphires and spinels, offering an extension to the exclusivity of couture.

Continuing to evolve his take on couture, Jones’ AW23 collection for Fendi exceeds his previous showings and presents a meticulously designed and crafted array of clothes that scream elegance.

by Imogen Clark