IN tribute with a capital T to the true Yves Saint Laurent girl, Anthony Vaccarello’s SS18 collection felt touched by the spirit of the recently departed Pierre Bergé. This was the first show the long-time business partner and at one point life partner of Saint Laurent will have missed since meeting his kindred spirit in 1958 and was it ever a show. A total of 91 looks were shown on a runway cast in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower which gave street attitude and a youth fix that fits to foundations already very well laid.
Delving into the archives seems more appropriate than ever now with ‘80s power-dressing mania reaching fever pitch. Vaccarello has got the memo and worked harder than ever to make puffball sleeves puffier than ever thanks to marabou feathers and leather packed with enough air to rival the most durable airbags. If not sleeves, it was collars given enough wingspan to take off. Or else, asymmetrical bows cinching in sexy mini-dresses.
The miniscule mini’s gave full frontal attention to long legs. Raised high by razor-sharp heels as high as hems in something of a Vaccarello at Saint Laurent signature, boots were the other standout signature. Last season it was the slouchy but glittering crystal embellished knee high boots, this season it was the same but sans shimmer. Instead, for SS18, it was a mess of tassels.
In a Moroccan blue hue these brought the harum-scarum of the country’s famous souks to mind. Indeed much of this collection was also transported to other cultures that directly influenced the Parisian fusion Yves Saint Laurent mastered. Vacarello now demonstrates his clear understanding of this Parisian fusion and a sophisticated ability to make it work in the now. While the first can be learned via archives and the like, the second is all him.
by Livia Feltham