DIMMED lights by Thierry Dreyfus created a moody atmosphere at the PFWM SS20 Comme des Garçons show on Friday 21 June. This worked well for the initial darker looks – the limited light bounced off the satin threads of a flowing, deep green dress.
Rei Kawakubo is no stranger to playing with gender in her collections and enjoys mixing up preconceptions. For SS20 ankle-length printed coats in jungle green are contrasted by pink ruffles and embroidered flowers, as leather coats compliment blouses in white lace. Pearl necklaces add to the feminine chic of the collection and models wear short, flapper girl style hair to complete the looks. In one look the model’s midriff was on show, and in others the dresses are low cut to maximise this clash of gender that Kawakubo does so well.
The drummer Vincent Glanzmann accompanied the show, using soft symbols as well as drumming to build up the brooding atmosphere created by the lighting. Overall the show offered a slightly weird, eclectic contrast to the usual french glamour of PFWM.
Comme des Garçons displayed artistry in fashion at it’s most stimulating.
by Alicia Pountney