FINDING beauty in the dark, that was the title for the Comme des Garçons AW19 mens collection. Yet beauty wasn’t the only thing we found in the darkness, along with it we found hardware, velvet and mesh, a lot of mesh.
If the head-to-toe black looks and heavily-gelled long locks didn’t scream late seventies, early eighties punk and goth subculture, the sheer amount of black make-up must have. The French maison is known for bending the fashion rules, and perhaps explains why she took inspiration from such destructive movements. However, it would be foolish to think this is yet another designer making a punk-collection. Kawakubo throws on a sharply cut blazer and makes it her own.
Looks were accessorised plenty with all sorts of hardware and studs, straight from the tool shed. From underneath all these metal we could see the French maison’s collaboration with Jordan, resulting in a appropriated Air Jordan 1, blending seamlessly with its all black execution and chain detail with every look. Beauty was easy to find in the dark, as the clothes emerging reflected the light with their velvet, mesh or leather fabrics. Looks were paired with neatly tailored blazers, balancing out the edginess, and definitely steering away from any punk-stereotypes.
As can be expected from any Comme des Garçons collection, there was some decsontrcution to behold, yet it was in the details of zips, unfinished padded shoulders or a mere fringe.
In a largely monochromatic collection, it weren’t the prints that stood out, although the floral double-breasted dress did deserve a second take and a place in my wardrobe. No, it was the very last coat that – quite literally – shined the brightest. Covered in rhinestones forming a pattern resembling a peacock’s feather or jellyfish, opinions were divided, and worn over a mesh-top and croc-shorts this look was worthy of finishing one of Rei’s most successful mens’s shows.
Comme des Garçons redefines classics as well as movements: des punks according to Comme des Garçons.
by Lupe Baeyens
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