JUST 20km north of the famed pink walls of the city centre lies The Leela Palace Jaipur, a place where grandeur arrives quietly. The hotel rises from eight acres of gardens beneath the dusty folds of the Aravalli mountain range, all silver domes, mirrorwork and peacocks wandering around with startling confidence. Built only nine years ago, it already possesses the self-assurance of somewhere much older, as though Rajasthan’s royal history had simply found a new home.
I stayed in a Royal Villa with a plunge pool, a private world washed in soft coral pinks that nodded gently to Jaipur’s famous palette. Hand-tufted carpets lay on the ground, Thikri glass floral detailing adorned a wall, and Venetian mirrors hung above the twin basins catching the afternoon rays. Outside, the temperature-controlled pools and shaded daybed became a sanctuary during the dry afternoon heat.
The Leela Palace Jaipur exterior
Royal Villa with Plunge Pool
The service felt remarkably intuitive. My butler, Aryan, introduced himself shortly after arrival with a bouquet of pink lilies and somehow anticipated every practical need before I had fully formed it in my head. At dinner, he would appear discreetly to escort me through the palace courtyards, past one of the property’s 71 water features.
One evening, I had dinner at Jamavar – an interior that felt less like entering a restaurant and more like stepping into a particularly cinematic fantasy of Rajasthan. Candles flickered against more than 350,000 hand-cut Thikri mirrors and gold leaf detailing, creating a soft, amber glow. Named after the 16th-century shawls from Kashmir that are handed down through generations as heirlooms, Jamavar is The Leela’s celebrated fine-dining concept, whose cuisine reflects the intricate craftsmanship rooted in Indian culture.
Jamavar
The menu is simple, two versions: vegetarian and meat, and over three courses (and a palate cleanser) pays homage to the royal kitchens of the past, taking you through classics like Palak Patta Chaat and papadums to the traditional thali. What’s more, the all-women service team moved with remarkable precision and grace, and despite the interior grandeur, the atmosphere remained deeply comfortable, almost intimate. It was indulgent, certainly, but never intimidating.
Pool
Then there’s the Amber Terrace, a lively rooftop bar fit with a DJ whose offerings blend regional flavours with Eastern influences – think Chinese steamed dim sums, experimental cocktails derived from local botanicals and Sichuan-infused hummus. The newly opened Peacock Lounge brings a taste of the Mediterranean to those staying in villas, while the Aravalli Dining Room is an impressive buffet spanning global cuisines from morning to night.
What remains with me most, though, is the sense of calm. For all its scale, the palace never felt overwhelming. Instead, it felt deeply considered, designed for lingering rather than spectacle, a sanctuary even, and one I hope to return to.
by Imogen Clark
Nightly rates at The Leela Palace Jaipur start from £250