TBILISI, GEORGIA — How does a designer evolve? Perhaps every creative director has faced the dilemma of realising that their signature look—so zeitgeisty for a few seasons—could be fast fading in relevance, requiring either refinement or renewal.
At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi‘s Spring/ Summer 2027 edition, which took place at The Factory in the heart of the capital’s old town, Georgian designers carved out a compelling niche by making innovation and heritage part of their everyday vernacular, following a testing period shaped by socio-political disruption. But “innovation” is proving to be a harder sell these days, as fashion continues to move in more streamlined directions amid systemic downturns hitting businesses at a daunting pace.
The results were mixed. Some offerings were winsome, particularly when creatives rejigged familiar shapes to disrupt and deflate rigid volumes. There were also appealing fabric choices, such as the graphic, gauze-like cotton that brought a welcome sense of lightness to RECKLESS. Elsewhere, the breezy yet compellingly soft texture of shirts lent a welcome sharpness to Unknown Artisan, both in its key wardrobe staples and separates. The thicker, technical materials, however, had the opposite effect, weighing the clothes down, while Lashao‘s emphasis on proportion play—particularly in its separates—did not always bear fruit.
But there was more to the story. On the cultural front, the brilliant artists from the Sukhishvili Dance Academy offered a welcome respite, delivering a performance of the Acharuli dance that featured dozens of students in a contemporary piece brimming with technicality, dynamism and gestures of pure romance, all underscored by a pulsating energy.
“These are traditional dances from different regions of Georgia,” Nino Nikolaishvili, dancer and instructor with the legendary Georgian National Ballet Sukhishvili, told GLASS after the academy’s dress rehearsal.
Returning to fashion, the dichotomy between techno-sport and eveningwear continued to run apace through the Georgian style vocabulary, with designers’ ability to handle a sense-subverting alchemy becoming one of their greatest strengths. So how do these considerations translate on the rail? The freshest looks were those that introduced a more casual attitude. There was sophistication in these clothes, as well as intelligence in their construction. All in all, perhaps fun is their greatest form of resistance.
“Fashion Week was brought to a halt for almost three years,” Sofia Tchkonia, entrepreneur and founder of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi, tells GLASS. “We restarted in May and decided to give this platform to young, emerging brands, with the possibility of extending it to international designers who wanted to show to a wider audience,” she says.
Spring 2027 saw Tchkonia broaden the event’s horizons, welcoming a breadth of talent from beyond the local region, particularly those wishing to present their work to international press and buyers. “This is the second edition after our long pause,” she continues, adding, “It was quite difficult to restart given the political tensions—such as the different laws that are completely unacceptable for creative people and not in favour of the creative community in Georgia.”
Tchkonia describes financial aid for projects like Fashion Week as “difficult”, noting that the event relies on the organisation’s own funding. “I hope it will be much easier after this time,” she shares. “It’s quite difficult to say, but for the designers it’s complex to create these collections, and I almost feel that we’re restarting everything with them.”
Keen to remain independent from any political party, Tchkonia hopes Georgian designers will gain greater recognition around the world.
“When you go outside of Georgia, you don’t have as much attention from global audiences as you do when you show in your own country,” she says. “I hope all the brands that were not showing during this Fashion Week, but were showing before, will come back, understanding the importance of showing in your own country.”
“I really hope these designers receive more attention from international press and buyers because, at the end of the day, it’s all about quality. To achieve it, however, they need finances; and for people who genuinely support art, they also have to support these causes.”
Below, GLASS speaks to six newcomers blazing a trail on Tbilisi’s fashion calendar.
GUDU SS27
Lasha Mdinaradze — Designer at GUDU
“This season, GUDU’s inspiration comes from a dialogue between eras. We wanted to merge something old and vintage with a completely new approach—the careless energy of the 2000s, the power shoulders of the 1980s, and the freedom of the 1990s—and reinterpret it for today.
“We see vintage not as nostalgia, but as material for a new construction. That’s why the palette is both colourful and controlled: our signature black remains the core of the collection, punctuated by bright, almost senseless colour moments that break the monochrome and make it stylish.
“Fabrics are central to our statement. We work exclusively with natural materials like silk, chiffon and taffeta, which give lightness and movement. This season, we also introduce ties, including our curved tie shapes, as a key element. They represent the masculine side of the GUDU woman and create a tension between strength and softness.
“The concept of the collection is the self-sufficient woman. She is working, stylish, feminine and masculine at the same time. Hence the exaggerated shoulders as a symbol of protection and power, black tights that emphasise femininity and graphic line, and a touch of French chic: effortless, but never sweet. It’s a woman who doesn’t need to shout to be seen.
“We don’t chase trends. For GUDU, a trend is just a reason to talk about form. The fashion industry, both in Georgia and globally, is oversaturated. Our response is to do less, but more precisely. We believe in local ateliers in Tbilisi, in slow production, and in pieces that live for years, not just a season. Style, for us, is character, not hype.
“In the near future, GUDU will continue exploring the transformation of menswear into womenswear, expanding our accessories line and working with our archives. We want to grow organically, staying true to our DNA.”
Reckless SS27
Liza Kajrishvili, Masu Mtsariashvili and Anka Koiava — Designers at RECKLESS
“This season centres on a thought: firsts never leave. We were interested in the experiences that shape us before we have the language to understand them: first love, first rejection, the first encounter with anxiety, or the first sense of belonging. Their significance often becomes clear much later.
“School and college uniforms form the collection’s visual vocabulary. They carry that tension between fitting in and becoming yourself. We approach these familiar codes through the emotional unpredictability of adolescence, allowing individual gestures to interrupt the sense of order.
“A central element is our collaboration with Dadu Tsotadze, continuing the visual legacy of the late Georgian artist Nika Sakhanberidze. His ‘Chutkvavila’ flower stickers became part of young Tbilisi’s shared landscape, appearing on streets, clothes and everyday objects. Here, those flowers become buttons: functional objects that also carry a collective memory. Their repetition across the garments makes that connection tangible.
“We extended these ideas into a performance, bringing clothing, movement, a specially created set and live music into the same space. The intention was to give the collection a lively emotional rhythm.
“Working from Georgia today, it is difficult to separate the creative process from the political context. The growing sense of isolation, the uncertainty around our European future and the difficulties of building a brand from here enter the work because they enter our lives.
“For a brand rooted in youth culture, these questions are deeply personal: they shape how young people imagine their futures and whether they feel those futures are possible at home. Our response is to keep creating connections. We want audiences in Europe and beyond to understand what it feels like to be young in Georgia now: what this generation fears, what it refuses to accept and what it still hopes for.
“Fashion gives us a language to share those experiences across borders. Our hope is that RECKLESS can help keep that conversation open, bringing the voices of young Georgians into spaces where they deserve to be heard and making sure that, even as the country feels increasingly isolated, their world can continue to expand.”
Tamra SS27
Tamuna Karumidze — Designer at TAMRA
“There are many layers to this collection, but the most important one for me is emotional. The dresses were partly inspired by Hussein Chalayan’s mechanical white dress that opens at the back. But I always see clothes together with the person wearing them. I create characters, and the people in this show helped shape the collection.
“Other things find their way in: the street, music, something I’ve read, seen or imagined. A lot seems to come from my subconscious. I never liked tulle, yet somehow I’ve put huge piles of it into my skirts and dresses. And of course, the brutality and madness of the world today are in there too. I live in it; it enters what I make.”
Unknown Artisan SS27
Lika Kubaneishvili — Designer at UNKNOWN ARTISAN
“Spring 2027, titled Dowry, explores Georgian cultural memory through traditional costumes, music, rituals and celebrations, translating these influences into a contemporary visual language. Rather than directly reproducing traditional garments, the collection revisits their essence through silhouettes, proportions, embroidery, textures and movement.
“The title refers to the Georgian tradition of the dowry, particularly the embroidered garments and textiles historically created by women. In the highlands of Georgia, embroidery has long represented an important form of cultural expression, preserving knowledge, identity and craftsmanship across generations. Through Dowry, Unknown Artisan seeks to give renewed visibility to this heritage while exploring its relevance in contemporary fashion.
“Materials and craftsmanship remain central to the brand’s identity. Carefully selected, high-quality natural Italian fabrics are chosen for their texture, movement and durability. Each garment is handmade and produced in limited quantities, reflecting a commitment to slow fashion, longevity and a zero-waste philosophy.
Unknown Artisan SS27
“Beyond design, Unknown Artisan embraces a strong social mission through collaborations with Spazio 3R in Milan and the Georgian Heritage Crafts Association through its social tailoring workshop in the Ghorjomi Gorge. These partnerships create opportunities for women through craftsmanship, encouraging economic independence and the preservation of traditional skills.
“Navigating an industry increasingly challenged to reconsider its environmental and social impact, Unknown Artisan proposes a more thoughtful, inclusive and responsible approach to fashion. Its ambition is to continue connecting Georgian and Italian cultures, empowering women artisans and ensuring that traditional knowledge finds a meaningful place in the future of fashion.”
DVALI SS27
Levan Dvali and Saba Orbeladze — Designers at DVALI
“This season, DVALI explores the concept of ‘Dark Romanticism’, drawing inspiration from the complex relationship between love, passion and desire. We are interested in the intensity of these emotions and the contrast between their beauty and darker sides. This emotional direction defines the mood of the collection and its visual language.
“The collection is primarily built around three materials: leather, wool and silk. Each brings a distinct character and texture, allowing us to explore the contrast between strength, softness and structure.
“Black is the only colour used in DVALI collections. For us, it is more than a visual choice: it is an integral part of the brand’s identity and the language through which we express our ideas.
“Our aesthetic can be described as dark, architectural, raw and romantic. However, the silhouette is always the starting point of our creative process. It is both the central design principle and a constant source of inspiration. When working on each garment, we first consider its shape, proportions and relationship with the body. Details emerge later, serving to emphasise the silhouette. We believe that a strong silhouette can communicate an idea without the need for excessive decoration.
“Against the backdrop of rapid changes in the contemporary fashion industry, our priority is to preserve our creative direction and develop the brand in a way that remains true to DVALI’s distinctive identity. Fashion is an evolving industry in Georgia.
“DVALI’s collections have already been presented internationally, including at CUBE showroom in Paris, but this is only the beginning. The brand is developing rapidly and is presenting its collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi for the first time. The event represents a key platform in Georgia for showcasing fashion designers and introducing their work to both local and international markets. We are excited to be part of Georgia’s most important fashion event.”
LIYA SS27
Liya Goglidze — Designer at LIYA
“I have a background in theatre because my parents were actors and come from theatre, so we decided to create a summer collection inspired by lightness. We then decided that the Spring 2027 performance of Le Nozze di Figaro will continue beyond Tbilisi Fashion Week, stretching into a longer theatrical presentation that we hope to take into the world.
“It embodies motion and music, the power of movement together with material and fabric. And even though it feels very costume-y, this is actually our ready-to-wear.”
by Chidozie Obasi