THE Alexander McQueen design team field trips have grown to become a core element for the house. A key part in developing and maintaining the unrivalled vision, rich is historical reference, that the house and its late founder are so highly regarded for.
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection photograph by Chloe Le Drezen
Most recently we saw creative director, Sarah Burton, look to Welsh folklore, carved wooden spoons and seventeenth century love letters, as inspiration for her AW20 collection, at Paris Fashion Week a couple of months ago. However, when looking back further to McQueen’s SS20 collection – a pared-down, craft-focused body of work – soundtracked by the London Contemporary Orchestra, a new place of inspiration comes to light.
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection
For SS20, the team travelled across the country from their London-based HQ to Northern Ireland, and the land we might associate with shamrocks and rolling hills went on to inspire Burton and her team. A visit to Thomas Ferguson in Northern Ireland’s County Down, established in 1854 and the last remaining damask linen weaving mill in all of Ireland, provided particular incentive for the designers. After gaining access to the mill’s extensive archive, key looks in the collection were imagined, shedding light on the intricacy of traditional Irish textiles.
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection photograph by Liam Lesie
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection. Photograph: Adama Jalloh
In particular the house created a square-neck dress in ivory damask linen finished with detailed lace work, alongside a tailored jacket, peg trousers and shorts veiled in the same fabric. Cotton poplin woven with bold tablecloth stripes, and shirts with lace-trimmed hems, were also a key feature inspired by – and later developed with – The Thomas Ferguson mill.
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection
Alexander McQueen SS20 collection photograph by Chloe Le Drezen
by Augustine Hammond