MODERNITY and tradition are perfectly combined in the Fall/Winter 2022 collection by Brioni. The collection remains true to their brand core purpose: “create clothing of unparalleled lightness and comfort whose beauty is timeless”.
The collection was inspired by Brioni’s design director Norbert Stumpfl’s place of birth: Rome. More specifically, the Breughel the Elder’s painting Allegory of Air, which hangs in Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj.
Muted shades of grey, cream, and brown that mirror the painting make up the collection’s colour palette. The occasional pop of royal blue and turquoise juxtaposes the rather understated colour scheme. Fine details such as metal decals decorate the odd suit jacket and collared shirt.
Stumpfl captures the refined beauty of Rome in gorgeously restrained silhouettes and expert craftsmanship. A luxurious, storm coloured coat made of out Prince of Wales cashmere is cinched at the waist with a large buckle belt. Trousers exhibit a subtle, leg-lengthening pleat to balance the expertly tailored suit jackets.
Infrequent pops of colour like an Italian coastline turquoise silk cut to make a suit or a rich, royal blue jacket and matching scarf add an element of surprise to the line up. A standout crocodile bibbed workwear shirt with cashmere sleeves and back demonstrates Stumpfl’s comfortability with unexpected fabrics.
“Reflecting the wider world around us, we continue to explore the territory shared between two once-divided menswear universes – the formal and casual,” Brioni writes of their Fall/Winter 2022 collection. A few womenswear looks are sprinkled throughout the predominantly menswear collection. Brioni’s collection makes an understated but unequivocally fashionable statement.
by Jamison Kent