ESTABLISHED in 2011 by Chinese-born, London-based designer Huishan Zhang, his namesake brand has been synonymous with luxury and contemporary richness since it launched.
And for the Pre-Fall 2025 collection, the chic aesthetic continues as we see a exploration of tension between refined elegance and youthful rebellion, inspired by Luis Buñuel’s 1967 movie, Belle de Jour, starring Catherine Deneuve, with costumes designed by Yves Saint Laurent.
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Channelling the move – think polished by day, subversive by night – this line reflects the duality at play in Deneuve’s character, Séverine, while also nodding to the cultural shift in the ’60s, from haute couture to ready-to-wear that has a lasting effects on the fashion industry.
Expect demure silhouettes in classic fabrics such as black guipure are embellished with crystal embroidered bows, that are set against pointed toe kitten heels and fishnet hosiery for a sophisticated/daring combination.
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
We see the return of the beloved opera coat, a black double face wool version that features a removable embroidered white collar, along with sharp tailoring that include a black nip-waist, narrow belted wool jacket that’s worn with an ankle-skimming fit-and-flare skirt, a floral jacquard strapless gown, and a highly embellished mini dress with exaggerated bow collar.
There are dashes of colour too, bright pink and acid lime green, along with metallics bring plenty of playful opulence alongside classic black, white and neutral tones.
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
Of course, we see fine detailing and embellishment, for which HUISHAN ZHANG is known for, and these are evident in post of the pieces; from the ultra-delicate, all-over embroidered beaded dresses to decorated pearl collars.
Another trait – high glamour – is seen in the collection too, that’s been rounded off with a sense of practicality for the everyday. Here, sequins embroidered with flower patches are subtly underplayed by the house’s signature crisp poplin shirting in city stripes and white, as the wearer treads a tightrope of gumption and glamour.
by Felicity Carter