DARKNESS descended on the Rick Owens SS17 show in Paris this week. Staged in a coiling stone vault, the models upheld the same bold walk as seen in previous collections – again with human deterioration in mind, but with unique changes.
Like last season, Owens was interested in draping, from invoking eccentric American footballers pads to having horsehair draping the torso creating atypical volumes – but there is one major difference this season … colour. Embarking on a new journey, he chose palettes of rain-washed sky blue, auburn, honey yellow and amethyst. Of course, there was still sprinkle of black throughout, but it was a stirring change for Owens.
The sounds of Nina Simone tracks ricocheted across the secluded building, making sure that colour wasn’t the only change of the season. Gone where the bulky boots and heavy materials – we saw ostrich plumes floating around the body and shoes that seemed to be softer and slimmer. Owens stated that he wanted the models to almost float, imitating the composition and ambiance that this collection advocates.
Overall, it was clear to see that risks and deviations were made in this SS17 collection, but is this going to be the new style for Owens? Are we going to see more colour in seasons to come? Whatever the outcome, it’s clear to see that – yet again – Owens has created an unforgettable show.
by Kirsty Small
View the collection here