HUGO Boss is seeing summer clearly. That point was proven yesterday as the designer showcased his SS19 collection during New York Fashion Week. A mind-set of clarity was particularly present as, for the first time, BOSS Menswear and Womenswear were infused together. A California breeze blew through the Big Apple, manifesting itself through garments catered to the coastal city. Boss’s clan of models rolled through a minimal space, styling soft and elegant ensembles for the travel. In effect, this runway was a highway – the Pacific Coast, to be exact. And much like the foregrounding influence, the clothing line was a breath of fresh air.
There was a technological feeling of something new as soon as guests entered the show setting: Basketball City, on the lower East side of Manhattan. Simplistic white encompassed the square space and seating, names upon which were imported onto miniature electronic badges. That detail of modernity did much to explain the clothing that surfaced: a seamless overlap of beach and metropolitan life. The show began with a romantic revelation: blush pastels and magenta’s coloured loose yet luxury garments, emitting a surf-inspired vibe through relaxed, sports-style tailoring. Boss’s signature sartorial style remained prominent, but he was clearly being informed by a laid-back life approach. Sport is synonymous with California, after all. From surfboard stripes used as appliqués on tailoring, to running threads of drawstring fastenings on blouses and trousers, sport and sartorialism were married. And all applauded.
But Boss didn’t solely stick to airy fabrics. Knitwear received a summer treatment too, with sweaters being structured in an almost transparent crinkled fabric to accompany cropped silhouettes. Parka jackets were also elevated through uses of neoprene-like wool. Catered to California? Weather wise – definitely. And palette wise too; following Boss’s opening entourage of romantic hues, every assortment of colour connected to the sunny state was revealed. It was like observing a coastal spectrum: pale blue, navy, light teal, orange and bright yellow.
Those latter colours brought a richness and overt sense of summer to garments which were tailored with precision. Their structures remained elegant for summer, with most suits being crafted from crinkled cotton and paper-touch cloth. With the compliment of fluid viscose-satin dresses for women, Boss was evidently conducting a sea spray treatment. When can we sign up?
Against the backdrop of prominent, pulsing electronic sounds, Boss’s SS19 show brought with it a feeling of total advancement. The designer has now joined the ever-growing club of male to female show infusion, and it’s understandable why so. Boss’s garments express a fluidity and lightness that consistently overlaps between menswear and womenswear.  With accompanying  accessories of wide-brim hats, coloured sunglasses, derby shoes and sandals – this collection was the clothed construction of a seaside yet city scene.  This is BOSS – and as far as spring summer 2019 is concerned, he’s breezing through it. Cali’s calling!
by Faye Fearon
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