THE Olivier Theyskens woman exudes femininity through a certain surrealistic sensuality, and this season is no different. After relaunching his eponymous fashion brand two years ago, Olivier Theyskens effortlessly re-establishes his unique aesthetic of goth-romance for his SS19 collection: militant romance. A mixture of utilitarian wardrobe staples – think LBD – infused with a whiff of sheer lacy romance.
With a knack for bringing nostalgia to the runway in a contemporary fashion, the famous voyeuristic photographs, The Doll, from the German photographer Hans Bellmer were a source of inspiration behind his SS19 collection. The photographs itself are a contradiction, corrupting the innocence of a doll by its representation and emphasise of its genitals. Bringing the through-provoking images to life on elegant skirt suits and dresses, the Belgian designer tries to encapsulate this idea in the form of empowered lust.
Olivier seemed to be reliving his Rochas days as models walked the runway dressed in cascading floor-length knife pleated gowns, confirming his title of renaissance man and tying it all together with a mint coloured bow. The romance was in turn balanced out by the use of patent leather; mid-calf combat boots and backpack-like straps, ascribing the military vibe to the collection.
The only question remaining is, how do we sign up for this fashion army?
by Lupe Baeyens