FOR a story-teller as talented as Alessandro Michele, the best way to showcase such a keen sense of creativity is through big spectacles. His most recent debut at MFW as the creative director for Gucci, was nothing short of jaw-dropping. Taking place at the Gucci Hub in Milan, the SS20 show was accompanied by a futuristic-electro soundtrack, clinical lighting and modern conveyer belt reminiscent of those we often see at airports. Entitled Orgasmique, the line pushed multiple boundaries in the name of sensuality, while simultaneously engaging in the unique magnetism Michele has come to represent throughout the world of fashion.
The show opened in perhaps the most memorable way of the entire fashion month so far, with statuesque models holding still as the conveyer moved. These 60 opening looks consisted of beige and ivory clothing with a totally minimal edge. With clean lines and simple silhouettes, they added to the overall theatrics of the Michele’s spectacle. For the designer, these looks were a political commentary on how through fashion, power is exercised over life to eliminate self-expression.
And then the room went pitch black. As the lights flickered back on, the audience watched in awe as models sporting the colourful SS20 range hit the runway. Playing with a bold palette of fuchsia, bright reds, canary yellows and mint greens, Michele saw no limit to the rainbow of colours for his spectacle. Stand-out looks among the collection were the 1970s inspired two-piece suits. Tailored with a high waist and wide-legs, they play into Gucci’s unique emphasis on a timeless style that knows no specific era.
Shocking the crowds, model Ayesha Tan Jones took a stance against the fashion house’s representation of mental health with its strait-jacket-inspired pieces. Walking with raised hands, written with a marker pen on her palm, the words read “Mental health is not fashion”. Following the show, Michele defended the collection as an exploration of uniforms and submission, rather than a commentary or attempted glamorisation of mental illness.
Interlaced throughout the collection was the subtle Gucci symbol, which made for visual enticing prints. Bold glasses also made an appearance in the show show. Much like the sheer size of the collection, the glasses carried a similar go big or go home ethos with regards to just how wide the frames seemed. They were also frequently accompanied by a thick vintage-inspired glasses chain, which added a unique layer to the looks. When the sun returns next spring, we’ll no doubt be spotting these beauties on the beach.
Ultimately, a bold collection such as this deserved an equally first-class audience. On-hand to give Alessandro Michele a star-studded congratulations were Jared Leto, Hari Nef, Sienna Miller, designer Dapper Dan among others.
by Maria Noyen