An Evening of Japanese Dining at Kokin, The Stratford

STRATFORD moves quickly, but inside The Stratford, time slows. Step off the platform and the pace is immediate, yet moments later the shift is tangible. The lobby lounge is calm and inviting, with armchairs gathered around a fireplace and softened by carefully placed artwork.

Designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill with interiors by Space Copenhagen, the hotel feels modern and luxurious without excess.

The Stratford

Up in the room, floor-to-ceiling windows draw in soft daylight, while natural materials and muted tones create a sense of ease. My room is one of 145 rooms in the property, the space fuses Scandinavian style with serene pastel tones and natural timbers. Thoughtful, comforting touches, from the plush branded hoodies and slippers to Jo Loves toiletries in the marble bathroom, add to the feeling of well-thought-out luxury. The calm here feels deliberate, encouraging you to linger rather than rush, an ideal prelude to dinner.

Dinner takes place several floors above at Kokin, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant. Located on the seventh floor, the lift opens directly into a calm, serene dining room overlooking Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. The shift from hotel to restaurant feels effortless, with the setting placing full attention on the food.

The Stratford Studio room

Following the success of Chef Daisuke Shimoyama’s kaiseki restaurant Hannah in Southbank, Kokin is his latest venture. Named after the Japanese word for “past and present”, the restaurant reflects Shimoyama’s balance of traditional technique and contemporary approach, with cherry and apple wood and Binchotan charcoal lending subtle smoke, clarity and texture to exceptional Japanese and British produce.

I sip on a Peach Splash, recommended by our waiter, as we settle in and browse the menu –  a refreshing blend of peach, grenadine, yuzu and ginger beer that is light, gently sweet and well judged, setting the tone for the evening ahead.

Dishes from Kokin

We begin with the Japanese assorted platter, a beautifully curated starter to begin our evening. The oyster is clean and briny, and the exceptional homemade tofu cream with langoustine tartare is delicate and silky – so perfect that we order a second each. Saba sushi (mackerel), anago chawanmushi (steamed egg) and aubergine tempura complete the platter, offering contrast without overwhelming the palate.

Nigiri follows, featuring Portugal wild tuna chutoro and unagi, both served atop Kokin’s signature woodfire-smoked sushi rice. The gentle smokiness adds depth and warmth, especially to the buttery and rich chutoro, enhancing rather than competing with the fish. Next comes the Japanese Amadai tempura, its crisp, crackling scales giving way to tender flesh, accompanied by light vegetable tempura.

From the grill, the wood-fired tuna kama is one of their signatures, so flavourful and umami. The Portugal wild bluefin tuna collar is finished with a homemade eight-year-aged ponzu sauce and strikes a precise balance between smoke, acidity and depth.

TEMAE Sushi

The defining moment of the evening comes with Kokin’s signature TEMAE Sushi, a hands-on dish built around woodfire-smoked sushi rice, cuts of Portugal wild bluefin tuna and ikura. Assembling the sushi ourselves feels intimate and playful, and the result is deeply satisfying. It is, without question, the highlight of the meal.

Dessert remains understated: wood-fired ice cream with fermented raspberries, light and gently complex, bringing the evening to a soft close.

Dinner at Kokin flows effortlessly into the night. Returning upstairs to our room at The Stratford feels like a natural close to the evening, the kind that leads to an easy, deeply restful sleep.

by Vivian Hui

To book a table at Kokin, follow the link here

Opening hours:

Tuesday to Friday 12pm – 2pm and 5pm to 10pm

Saturday 12pm – 2pm and 5pm to 11pm

Sunday 12pm – 2pm and 5pm to 9pm

The Stratford, Autograph Collection

Room rates start at £179 based on two sharing a double room

20 International Way, Olympic Park, London, E20 1FD