COPENHAGEN, DENMARK — Normcore is in the eye of the beholder. One popular interpretation of the trend leans on embracing the beauty of the quotidian: cosy separates and whatever else the average frat guy might have been wearing since the early noughties. Another take is more upscale—minimalism-lite, you might say, perhaps accessorised with white socks or shower slides. Copenhagen Fashion Week has its own interpretation.
Now in its twentieth year, the event brought forth a canny distillation of ideas that have matured over years of memorable shows and presentations, expressed through gently crafted, throw-it-on dressing. Designers’ excellent know-how made the point: tops came as finely sculpted blousons with balloon sleeves, while trousers were cropped, flared, and volumised in their schlumpy chic.
You could imagine one of these style aficionados wandering around the city’s neighbourhoods in them just as easily as you could picture them dressing the looks up – a touch – with one of CPHFW’s key accessories, proving that comfort and ease still sit at the core of the designers’ creative vernacular.
That easy attitude pervaded the collections, but never at the expense of the designers’ left-of-centre sensibility. A cotton topper, for instance, was suited to such normcore lifestyle staples as going to the office, yet it was anything but ordinary thanks to its subtly provocative shape and dramatic structure.
For a long time, the region’s talents were names known only to the fashion cognoscenti. At fashion shows, you would often hear someone remark, “Oh, but this label has been working on form forever.” And that was absolutely true. Now, however, these designers are gaining momentum, reaching a wider audience and achieving greater relevance on the world stage. Toying with convention and ditching tradition comes with risks, yet other offerings – like cropped outerwear made from retro silks or vibrant patterns printed onto neutral canvases – felt entirely fresh.
Much of the appeal of these clothes was intimate or, at any rate, best appreciated up close. Some weighty essentials were so immediately appealing they could satisfy throngs of customers without hesitation. Elsewhere, the gestures were broader: a few names on the schedule devised collections that were smaller in scale but broader in scope, confronting notions of history and pared-back glamour before slyly reinterpreting them in service of a down-to-earth, modular wardrobe for modern characters.
“Spring/ Summer 2027 began with a clear intention: to introduce a more delicate expression to our jewellery universe at LIÉ STUDIO,” Amalie Moosgaard, Co-founder and Creative Director at the brand, told GLASS in a preview. She observed a growing desire for smaller, more refined pieces that could be worn effortlessly every day while still feeling distinctive.
“This season, each design is centred around a petite bezel-set gemstone in either grey agate or black onyx, exploring two distinct expressions. Our silver styles with grey agate feel fresh and light, while our gold styles with black onyx offer warmth and depth for a more contrasting look,” she reflected.
“Beyond the collection, we have recently introduced a smaller version of our Norma Tote. The original design has remained one of our strongest performers since its launch alongside our leather category more than two years ago, and this new interpretation is a natural evolution of a silhouette that continues to resonate.”
Rather than replacing successful designs, she believes in refining and expanding the existing assortment over time.
“Looking at the current market, Copenhagen continues to be a strong home for the label,” Moosgaard said. “Our flagship store has increasingly become a destination for visitors wanting to experience the brand in person. Internationally, rising gold and silver prices have presented new challenges and reinforced the value of building a balanced accessories house. As our leather goods category continues to grow and our Italian-made eyewear has been exceptionally well received, we look forward to further strengthening these categories while remaining committed to thoughtful, lasting design that remains relevant across seasons.”
There were also pieces featuring intricate patterns or meticulous detailing that rewarded closer inspection, yet these remained garments rooted in comfort, intended to be worn alone or mixed interchangeably with timeless classics or more daring, tailored options.
Everyday wardrobe propositions typically err on the basic side, so the more they are showcased, the easier they become to mix and match. Designers demonstrated restraint by subtracting unnecessary flourishes, whether from the sculpted collars of blazers or from dresses, for that matter. The effect riffed on reductionism, never becoming eccentric or overly mannered, and for all the minimalist references, the clothes never felt contrived or precious. As the designers explained, their modus operandi was to modernise their references by subtly roughing them up.
These touchpoints, and the collections built around them, possessed an easy charm that will appeal to insiders and brand partners alike. These pieces were among the most immediately accessible of the Spring runways, driven by circumstance rather than mere leisure.
“It would be naïve of me to say that the last few years have been easy for the Nordic fashion landscape: the socio-political, geopolitical, and economic climate, matched by the climate crisis, has created a hotbed of obstacles for independent businesses to flourish,” Cecilie Thorsmark, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Chief Executive Officer, told GLASS.
“What this season has proven to me, however, is the sheer resilience, creative ambition, and collective spirit that I am proud to see embodied in our SS27 schedule. We have had an incredible return of brands to the runway, a wave of new names joining the line-up, and the excitement of the next generation coming to the forefront. We are so proud of the development of our Sustainability Requirements and the impact they have made; they continue to be a bedrock of our organisation in driving positive change.
Recognising our 20-year anniversary has been as much about looking back on the last two decades and how far we have come as it has been about looking towards the next twenty years, and how creating a positive impact within our incredible creative industry continues to be our driving force for the future.”
All in all, these collections served to commercialise the Copenhagen design vernacular—not in a dumbed-down way, but by extrapolating its ideas towards day-to-day wearability. If that is normcore, we’re all for it.
The best looks from Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2027 season:
- Freya Dalsjø: The designer’s current SS27 manifesto came through a slew of black, longline gowns that alternated intrecciato motifs (in wool) with a palate-cleansing number of soft, sheer fabrications.
- Gestuz: Bold silhouettes and clashing prints made up for the label’s SS27 outing, with leather separates adding a touch of erotic glamour to the lineup.
- Paolina Russo: Winner of The Zalando Visionary Award as well as a finalist of the famed LVMH-Prize in 2023, the designer’s Spring statement conveyed garments that merged clashing prints, textures and an outburst of colour—adding a functional touch by way of denim separates, cotton tops and knitted trims.
- Alectra Rothschild: The designer’s lineup comprised a wealth of nightgowns, baby tees and tiny athleisure-wear, where materiality and techniques are intense and focused on fishnets, lace, fringes and embroidered details.
- Herskind: The label’s Spring outing focused on sculptural silhouettes with a crafty sensibility, unleashing a quiet sensuality by way of linear volumes and sharp lines.
- Henrik Vibskov: Titled ‘Keep The Moisture, Rising’, the designer continued his exploration of the label’s signature styles—namely, throw-on separates with a worn-in appeal that featured a louche take on tailoring with a retro twist.
- Mfpen: With utility and loose, fuss-free functionality at the core of its practice, the label’s Spring outing synthesised a feeling of being overworked—which, on clothing terms, translated in a predominantly black and earthy slew of separates. .
- Institution: Galib Gassanoff’s latest outing brought forth a contemporary interpretation of sculptural techniques and craftsmanship, referencing the cultures of populations spanning from Siberia, West Asia and Europe.
- Caro Editions: Empowered femininity, vibrancy and a buzzy ‘party fever’ epitomised the label’s Spring outing, closing the Copenhagen Spring 2027 calendar with a breadth of embellished pieces that blended references of retro, modern and futuristic glamour while maintaining a Scandì vein.
- SSON: For the label’s Spring outing, silhouettes are sculptural, exaggerated and playful. Building on last season’s bag skirt, the lineup pushes further: looks were inspired by the ads of traveling women in the 40s, drawing on garments from the 20th century such the bolero, the cape and bloomers.
by Chidozie Obasi
Runway images by James Cochrane