ITALY IS undoubtedly one of the best destinations for skiing holidays, and few places do it better than Valle d’Aosta.
Nestled in the northwest of the country, the region lies surrounded by the towering peaks of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa. Home to some of Italy’s most glamorous and prestigious resorts, recognised for miles of picturesque slopes and a variety of off-piste entertainment, it made a name for itself as a top winter destination.
Montana Lodge & Spa at La Thuile
We arrive at La Thuile, a peaceful resort perched at 1,500 meters above sea level, bordering France, only a 90 minute drive from Turin airport. With an impressive 150 km of cross-border slopes, it’s an unbeatable heaven for skiers. The town itself is quaint and unhurried, dotted only with a few charming shops selling the essentials and local cheese and wine.
Our hotel, Montana Lodge & Spa, part of Italian group R Collection, is the perfect hideaway and the only five-star property in La Thuile making it a favoured meeting spot in the area. Offering bright and early mornings on the slopes, you can expect first class treatment in the afternoon choosing from long, tranquil evenings by the fire with an aperitivo, dinner in a glass-walled Bistrò Alpino, or relaxing at the Erre Spa – particularly in the outdoor hot tub with a sunset backdrop.
Erre Spa at Montana Lodge
In the morning, my rental equipment is waiting in the ski room. The sky is flawless, and Christiano, the hotel’s events manager, hands me sunscreen with a knowing smile. A quick five-minute shuttle ride later, we’re at the gondola, ready for our Alpine adventure. La Thuile has something for everyone.
Gentle forest trails for beginners, thrilling red and black runs for the fearless. As we ascend, someone warns not to end up on Pista 3 Franco Berthod – Italy’s beast of a slope with a terrifying 73% incline, which I quickly mark on my map with “avoid” in capital letters.
Bistrò Alpino at Montana Lodge
After a few hours of carving through the snow (and avoiding wrong turns), we gather at Lo Ratrak, basking in the sun with other skiers. The feast begins – cured meats, nutty Fontina cheese, and the region’s beloved polenta concia, drenched in cheese and butter. Topped with venison ragu or wild mushrooms, it’s the mountain meal which aims to fuel you for an entire day – or makes you want a nap in the sun.
Montana Lodge & Spa
The following morning starts with a thrill – a helicopter ride from Montana Lodge to Grand Hotel Courmayeur, another one of the R Collection properties. Part of the “Fly the Alps” package, the experience lets guests split their stay between two luxury resorts, making the most of and exploring both skiing destinations.
Soaring over villages and between towering peaks at sunrise is pure magic. We touch down just meters from the hotel’s restaurant, making an unexpected spectacle for diners enjoying their breakfast as we stumble out of the helicopter trying to sneak in a picture.
Grand Hotel Courmayeur
The hotel’s floor to ceiling glass walls frame picturesque mountain views, as we sip our cappuccinos, seamlessly blending modern design with the snowy landscape. Grand Hotel Courmayeur, the only luxury property outside the city centre, offers a peaceful escape just a short walk from the business of Via Roma.
Inside, natural wood, soft lighting, and chic neutral tones strike a perfect balance of elegance and comfort. With the spa for unwinding and fantastic massages, so needed after a day on the slopes, and incredible ravioli at La Fourchette, hotel’s restaurant, it radiates Alpine luxury.
La Fourchette at Grand Hotel Courmayeur
Unlike La Thuile’s tranquil charm, Courmayeur exudes an air of exclusivity. Known for its pristine slopes, dramatic Alpine scenery, luxury shopping, and lively après-ski scene. Despite having only, in comparison, around 40 kilometres of ski routes – I quickly find out it’s impossible to get bored with a variety of routes meandering through the forests.
Popular for its freeride opportunities, due to its high altitude and abundance of fresh snow, off-piste thrill-seekers head straight for the glacier – providing us with a great spectacle of carving through untouched powder, whilst we sip our Aperols at Christiania Ice Bar perfectly content.
Beyond skiing, Courmayeur isn’t short on activities. The Skyway Monte Bianco takes us up to 3466 meters above sea level, where we take in jaw-dropping glacier views, watch skiers glide through the sky, and stroll through the snowy park. We are being told that on calm days, there is an opportunity of taking a five kilometre cable car ride taking you straight to Chamonix – a perfect way to explore nearby resorts on the other side of the border for more adventurous souls.
Grand Hotel Courmayeur
Grand Hotel Courmayeur
A short drive away, a family-run Les Crêtes winery is another highlight of the region. During the exclusive tasting we have a chance to try the local wines: from the crisp and floral Petit Arvine (I immediately grab two bottles) to the bolder, fruity Nebbiolo, as well as eat our body weight in delicious local cheeses and meats – experiencing Aosta from inside out.
In the evening we visit another hidden gem: La Grolla, a family-owned restaurant tucked away in the mountain forest. The visit starts before we walk through the front door, as the only way to get to La Grolla is via a snowmobile ride under the moonlit sky. The food is hearty starring the local produce – rabbit ragu pasta, boar tortellini and polenta taragna finished with tiramisu or affogato. Pure indulgence.
Grand Hotel Courmayeur
Whether carving through fresh powder, sipping wine overlooking ancient vineyards, or ending the day with a fireside aperitivo, Aosta offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. And with the ease of getting there, I know this won’t be my last time in this part of the Alps.
by Olga Petrusewicz
To book visit Montana Lodge & Spa, Deluxe room with breakfast starting from €239
Grand Hotel Courmayeur, Classic room starting from €215
Fly The Alps package – summer rate: €1.700, winter rate: €2.350