MARKING the first haute couture show since the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, the house of Chanel presents their AW19 collection under the creative direction of Lagerfeld’s successor, Virginie Virad. Virad, though new to her position, worked closely with Lagerfeld for over thirty years while she was the director of Chanel’s fashion creation studio.
As a thoughtful nod to her close relationship with the late creative director, the Grand Palais showspace was transformed into a library – Lagerfeld was known for his love for books and had an estimated 350,000 books at the time of his death.
Perhaps less over the top than previous Chanel haute couture collections, this season has Virad taking a step in a more demure direction. Chanel classic designs saw a comeback, ankle-length tweed dresses featured high Victoria collars and 18th century-inspired court shoes.
Though there were several further references to Lagerfeld, Virad also explored her own take on haute couture. Detailed embroidery, gentle pastel silks and sheer silhouettes gave the collection a softer edge, enhanced by the addition of several metal-rimmed reading glasses.
Choosing to opt out of the tradition to showcase a wedding dress as the final look, Virad created a statement piece of her own, a ruffled, retro pink bathrobe over a pair of silk pajama bottoms concluded the collection with a refreshing twist.
by Mirabella Shahidullah