MY FRIEND suggested seeing the acclaimed Oscar-winning British actor, Gary Oldman, in Samuel Beckett’s Krapp’s Last Tape at the Duke of York. Sounds great, I said. And so, she bought two tickets.
However, on checking the tickets more carefully, we discovered there’s no Duke of York theatre in London, there is a Duke of York’s on St Martin’s Lane – only this one has an apostrophe. The actual Duke of York turned out to be many miles away in the city of York.
As we didn’t want to miss this one-off opportunity of seeing Oldman on stage for the first time in decades, we decided to head for York, a 90-minute direct train ride from London. To make the most of our visit, we decided to stay over for a few days to explore York’s rich history. What better place to stay than Middlethorpe Hall and Spa, just outside the city?

Middlethorpe Historic House Hotel exterior | Photographer: Annapurna Mellor of the National Trust
One of three National Trust hotels in the UK, the 300-years-old red brick and limestone house, with its stone-flagged floors, sash windows and panelled interiors, echoes with history. One of the Middlethorpe Hall’s most famous former residents was Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, the 18th century diarist who lived there from 1713.
We were warmly greeted by the friendly and obliging staff who took us up to our beautifully appointed and elegant suite, with its large ceiling-to-floor windows overlooking the tranquil and well-maintained 20-acre grounds.

Stairway at Middlethorpe hall
Middlethorpe Hall Hotel also has a boutique spa with an indoor swimming pool in which my friend enjoyed a relaxing early morning swim.
I am vegetarian and my friend requires a gluten-free diet – both these requirements were accommodated throughout our stay. We enjoyed some exquisitely prepared meals in the hotel’s award-winning restaurant, led by Head Chef Ashley Binder who creates imaginative – and delicious – dishes that reflect the seasons, using many herbs and vegetables grown in the walled kitchen garden of Middlethorpe Hall.

Chocolate Tart | Photographer: Annapurna Mellor of the National Trust
Travelling into York from the hotel was really easy, taking 10 minutes to get to the city centre by car. York is layered with fascinating history from the Anglo Saxons, the Norse and the Normans. To do it justice, you need more than a short stay to experience it all. So, we plan to go back.
And, yes, sometimes the best things occur by happenstance – it was well worth the detour north to see Gary Oldman.
by Caroline Simpson
B&B is priced from £289 per room per night and includes spa access