WINDING around the coloured tables filling Tramp, the London club, Peter Pilotto got us all dreaming of disco dancing with his AW18 collection. Warm colours of pinks and oranges kicked off his feminine collection, as carefree jumpsuits and relaxed dresses are reminiscent of ‘70s fashion. Hanging necklaces and bright bold coloured eye shadow contribute to the retro aesthetic Pilotto aimed for.
Dainty prints washing over luscious silks suggest the influence of Ossie Clarke and Celia Birtwell, famed for their free-flowing kaftans and psychedelic prints. Garment silhouettes all contribute to a hippy vibe; A-line skirts flow from empire line to the floor and draped sleeves hang off oversized, wrap-around dresses. Contrasting the lightweight silks and satins, fur is introduced in the form of coloured jackets, and is later evolved to be longer and more flamboyant.
A vibrant Moroccan influence is notable, with tasselled belts and shapeless dresses being visual associated with native fashion. To allow the collection to be current, contemporary fabric manipulation and construction techniques are used, such as statement knitting and lace embroidery. The collection finalised with a pair of playful panelled dresses bringing us back to reality, leaving our seventies dreams behind.
by Todd Burns