BRYAN Conway sat down with the Tiger of Sweden team three times for three hours. It was after an accumulation of nine hours of conversation when the creative director realised the deep-rooted importance of craft. Not just to him, but to everyone around him.
And if the past two years hadn’t forced a moment of pause and reflection enough, the personal anecdotes from those working at the brand reinforced the beauty in raw essence of clothes.
So, for autumn-winter 2022, Conway made the heartwarming decision to strip it all back and focus on craftsmanship by putting his craftsmen on a much deserved pedestal.
Sitting down with the designer, he begins by crediting Christopher Bailey, whom he worked alongside at Burberry, for his persistent acknowledgement of the importance of what you are using to make pieces; a serious understanding of materials.
Straying away from the over-industrialised and saturated section of the industry, Tiger of Sweden’s autumn-winter 2022 collection puts the design and the design process at its forefront by balancing practicality with simplistic Scandinavian style.
Brought to life in a special lookbook, photographed by Clémentine Schneidermann and modelled by the Tiger of Sweden studio team, the home turf of the brand’s yarn supplier Gotland in Sweden becomes the backdrop to the collection.
From those that make the yarn, to the pattern makers and tailors, we are given an intimate insight into those behind the clothes, and with a heritage that dates back to 1903, it is an apt time to shine the light on them.
AW22 delves into the roots of the brand along with Conway’s past. Referencing his history in tailoring with oversized double-breasted overcoats, creaseless suit trousers and trench coats with moleskin detailing under the collar, adding British sophistication to the mix, while puffer jackets, sage shearling jackets and utilitarian workwear bottoms add an element of realism to its cold environment.
A notable detailing is the locally-made ceramic twist that holds the coat men’s together, closing the coat like a pocket knife rather than folding it over – the perfect mix of innovation and tradition.
With this being Conway’s fourth collection for the brand, it was a seamless reappraisal of his position to push the brand forward, bringing with it its hailed heritage but through his indisputably sleek lens.
And with there being so much noise during London Fashion Week, Tiger of Sweden’s muted elegance for AW22 proves its unique vestige once again.
by Imogen Clark