EDELINE Lee’s autumn-winter 2025 show took place in the Orchid Room at the Dorchester Hotel. Guests were sat at long tables in a square formation facing each other, with the centre left empty, like a bull or boxing ring. The polite, calm room was suddenly disturbed by two women, duelling with rapiers.
With long black skirts twirling around them, they continued to fight. Directed by fight director Kate Waters she said, “The body makes such amazing shapes in these fighting styles and with Edeline’s designs the movements become even more alive”. Pair after pair came out. Manga fighters in poplin, boxers in brown ruching, karate fighters in fringe.
The colour palette was full-bodied with earthy tones and clean ivories. Poplins came in warm, rich browns and Celadon Blue, complimenting each other in their opposition. The brand’s signature designs such as the Flou Bubble Jacquard were present along with newer elements like a Chainmail mesh of silk and silver wire.
Inspired by the power of women and female strength, Lee wrote on her Instagram that the concept had been dreamt up six years ago and it was a journey watching it develop and come to life. The designer when asked about her collection said, “In my experience, women don’t fight each other, we train each other to fight, we share our knowledge and experience- we challenge each other, but we have each other’s back”.
by Imogen Hipkin Holland