TOLU COKER’s autumn-winter 2025 collection, titled Ori- Upon Reflection, was inspired by the Yoruban metaphysical concept of a guiding force that shapes purpose and existence. The presentation was designed to be layered with deeply meaningful symbols that guided the viewer through the space.
Upon entering the space, sounds of the live band soundtracked the experience, all led by Grammy-award winner Gaetan Judd, who was composing the music in real-time. This thought-provoking decision was to embody the acts of creation that went into the collection.
Photograph: Rashidi Noah
Photograph: Rashidi Noah
Photograph: Rashidi Noah
Taking inspiration from African Diaspora, Coker’s collection was heavy with references to Aladura churches, the ceremonial dress of the Candomble and Lucumi from across Brazil and Cuba, as well as the ritual attire of Black spiritual traditions in Louisiana and Haiti. Tying these sources together, she utilised classic, European tailoring – inherently embedded in her identity with her hailing from London, you could see the references to Savile Row.
Photograph: Rashidi Noah
Photograph: Rashidi Noah
Coker explained: “Clothes are not simply garments – they are archives of memory, carriers of culture, and markers of identity. To wear is to honour the past, embrace the present, and shape the future”. This belief was presented in the styling, with some models wearing garments from previous collections pushing the narrative of sustainability and legacy practically.
With hand-dyed and up-cycled textiles, plush jacquards and clean tailoring, AW25 honoured the craftsmanship that can be found across the Africa.
Tolu Coker Presentation
Tolu Coker Presentation
Tolu Coker Presentation
The lookbook was shot in the presentation space with spectators being able to watch the collection transition from an impermanent experience into eternal photographs. The central room in the show space had been turned into a copy of Coker’s atelier, involving the viewer in her process.
It was a meticulously and carefully curated presentation, one that pushed past the fast-paced nature of a runway show and gave us a more intricate insight into the world she is building with her brand.
by Imogen Hipkin Holland